Can a tailor fix it?.

Size up to fit the chest or bust and have the waist taken in. A hidden snap between two buttons only helps with a slight gap that opens when you move.

Return it and buy a smaller size or a cut with narrower shoulders. Moving the shoulder seam on a shirt is rarely worth it.

Have the top button moved toward the edge, which gains about 0.5 cm (1/4 inch). If you need more than that, buy the next collar size.

Have the side seams taken in, or two darts added at the back.

Have the sleeves shortened by removing the cuff, cutting the sleeve and sewing the cuff back on. Sleeves that are too short cannot be lengthened.

Have the hem shortened, either straight or with a curved shirttail. It will then be too short to tuck.

Buy a tall length or a cut with a longer tail. There is no fabric to add length.

A tailor can shorten a dart or move it a short distance, but the old stitching can leave marks. Petite and tall ranges place darts differently, so try those first.

Return it and buy a size or cut with narrower shoulders. Narrowing jacket shoulders means taking the jacket apart and rarely looks right after.

Have the sleeves shortened or lengthened at the cuff. Lengthening needs at least 2.5 cm (1 inch) of fabric folded inside the hem. If the cuff buttons really unbutton, the sleeve must be shortened from the shoulder instead, which costs far more.

Have the waist let out at the back seam and side seams. Most jackets have 1 to 2.5 cm (1/2 to 1 inch) to spare. If the chest is also tight, size up.

Have the waist taken in at the back seam and side seams.

A tailor can lower and shorten the collar, but it takes skill. Ask to see their work first. On a cheap jacket it is often not worth it.

Buy the right length (short, regular or long). Shortening more than about 2.5 cm (1 inch) leaves the pockets and button too low, and a jacket cannot be lengthened.

Size up to fit the bust and have the waist taken in, or look for a cut with princess seams. There is rarely enough fabric to let out at the bust.

Buy petite or tall sizing, which moves the waist shaping to match. Moving it on a finished jacket is not practical.

Return it. Buy the size whose shoulders fit over your jacket and alter the rest.

Return it and size up. Coat seams rarely hold more than 1 cm (0.4 in) of spare fabric to let out.

Shorten the sleeves from the cuff. Cuff straps and buttons have to be moved too, which adds to the price.

Ask the tailor to check the turned-up fabric inside the cuff. With 2 cm (0.75 in) or more it can be let down; otherwise size up or pick a tall fit.

Shorten the hem and lining. A back vent or a deep storm flap makes the job slower.

Have the belt loops moved to your natural waist.

Take in the side seams and the back seam. Pockets, gun flaps and the lining all get in the way, so get a quote first.

Let out the side seams below the waist if there is allowance. If not, return it and look for an A-line or wrap cut with more room at the hip.

Have it hemmed. Lined, layered, chiffon and bias-cut skirts cost more because each layer is hemmed separately and bias fabric has to hang before it is marked.

Ask to shorten the straps at the back so the neckline lifts.

Have the side seams, princess seams or darts taken in. A side zip or a lining adds to the cost.

Return it and buy the size that fits your bust or hips, whichever is larger, then take in the rest. Ready-to-wear seams rarely have more than 1 to 2 cm (under an inch) to let out in total.

A tailor can unpick the waist seam, shorten the bodice and reset the zip. A waist seam that sits too high cannot be lowered.

Small gaps can be closed by taking in at the shoulder seams or adding a dart. On a sleeved dress this means removing the sleeve, so it is often not worth it.

Return it. Narrowing the shoulders on a sleeved dress means rebuilding both armholes. On a sleeveless dress, a tailor can take in the shoulder seams more cheaply.

If the dress fits, have the zip replaced or re-sewn. If it is tight, the ripples are a sizing problem.

Have them hemmed while you wear the shoes you will wear most with them. Ask for a slight slant so the back is longer than the front.

Take in the waist at the center back seam. Up to about 5 cm (2 inches) is routine; more starts to distort the back pockets.

Let out the center back seam if there is allowance inside. Check before you buy by looking inside the back waistband.

Take in the center back waist and, if needed, deepen the back darts. Next time try a curvy cut.

Take in the seat through the center back seam, usually done with the waist.

Taper the legs from the knee or mid-thigh to the hem. A taper narrower than the shoe looks wrong, so stop at about 18 cm (7 inches) flat for men.

Let down the hem if there is 3 to 4 cm (1.5 inches) of fabric folded inside. On worn trousers the old hem line can show.

Return them. Go up a size and have the waist taken in, or try a cut with more room in the seat and thigh.

Hem them to no break or a slight break. Wash and dry them once first if they are not pre-shrunk.

Take in the waist at the center back seam. Up to about 5 cm (2 inches) is routine.

Take in the seat through the center back seam, usually together with the waist.

Taper from the knee to the hem. Stop at about 17 cm (6.75 inches) flat or the hem will catch on your shoes.

Let down the hem if there is 3 cm (about 1 inch) or more folded inside. A faded line can show where the old hem was.

Return them. Go up a size and have the waist taken in, or try a cut with more thigh room.

Return them. A tailor cannot add rise. Look for a mid or high rise.

Hem them. Ask for the original hem to be kept if you want the factory fade, or for a chain-stitch hem on rigid denim.

Take in the center back through the waistband and yoke. Next time try a curvy cut or a higher-stretch denim.

Taper from the knee to the hem through the inseam, which keeps the outseam and any selvedge line intact.

Return them. Rigid denim may give 1 to 2.5 cm (half to 1 inch) with wear; if it is further off, size up and take in the waist.

Return them and try a size up or a cut with more room in the thigh, such as athletic or relaxed taper.

Return them. A tailor cannot add rise. Look for a higher back rise or a curvy cut.

Buy stretch jeans snugger next time, or choose rigid or low-stretch denim with 1% elastane or less.

Return them. It cannot be pressed or sewn out.

Buy a smaller size or a narrower cut. Shoulder seams on a knit tee are not worth moving.

Size up, or look for a tee with more length at the front or a bit of stretch. Fabric cannot be added.

Have the hem shortened. Ask for a twin-needle or coverstitch hem so it matches the original and still stretches.

Have the sleeves shortened or narrowed at the underarm seam.

A tailor can take in the side seams. Many tees are knit as a tube with no side seams, which makes it harder, and on a basic tee it is often not worth it.

Buy pre-shrunk cotton or a blend, or buy with some length to spare. Wash cool and hang dry from then on.

Replace the tee. Next time look for a thick, firm rib at the neck and pull the tee on by the body, not the collar.

Return it. The twist comes back after any alteration.

First tie a bigger knot, a half-Windsor or Windsor, which uses more length. If it is still long, a tailor or tie specialist can shorten it from the neck end.

Tie a four-in-hand, the knot that uses the least length. If that is not enough, buy an extra-long tie, 160 cm (63 in) or more. A tie cannot be lengthened.

Retie with the wide end hanging lower before you start the knot. No cost.

Thread the narrow blade through the loop. If there is no loop, a tailor can sew one on.

Tie a half-Windsor or full Windsor, or choose a thicker tie for that shirt. No cost.

Tie a four-in-hand, or choose a thinner tie for that shirt. No cost.

A tie specialist can narrow a tie by re-cutting it, but the job is fiddly and the pattern can lose its balance. Pairing it with a different jacket costs nothing.

Have a cobbler fit heel grips, or stick them in yourself. A thin insole also helps.

Add a tongue pad under the tongue or a half insole to hold the foot back.

A cobbler can stretch leather across the width by a few millimeters.

Ask a cobbler to spot-stretch that area of the leather.

A cobbler can try stretching, but synthetics and patent leather often spring back. Return it if you still can.

Height stretching works only a little on leather. A thinner insole gives a few millimeters.

Return it. Stretching adds width, not length.

Return it. Pads hide half a size at most, and the shoe will crease in the wrong place.

Have a jeweler or watch shop remove links, taking the same number from each side of the clasp.

Add a link back. Keep the spare links that came with the watch; buying a missing one costs more.

Use the micro-adjust holes in the clasp, or fit a half link.

Fit a new strap in the right length and the same lug width.

A thinner, softer strap that curves down from the lugs can help. If the lugs still lift off the wrist, the case shape is wrong for you.

Return it. No strap fixes a case that is too large. Look for a shorter lug-to-lug next time.

Wear it with casual sleeves, or choose a thinner watch for shirts. A made-to-measure shirt can have a slightly wider cuff on the watch hand.

A wider strap makes it look a little bigger, but the case size stays the same. If it bothers you, choose a larger case.